Perfumery of the East

Selected list of recreated fragrances:

Fragrances of the early Islamicate states

Ramik (Anonymous 9th century Syriac texts). Aleppo oak gall nut, Ceylon cinnamon, cloves, Indian bay leaf. A fragrant base for antidotes and sukk.

• Sukk (Anonymous 9th century Syriac texts). Ramik, agarwood, white sandalwood, cloves, jasmine and musk. A heavy base for fragrances and medications.

• Royal duhn (oil) of ben called Iraqi Barmaki according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus. Oriental oil with sukk, agarwood, cloves, Indian nard and cubeb pepper.

• Distilled herbal water recipe according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus. A pleasant spicy water in rosewater base with agarwood, saffron, musk, ambergris and camphor.

• Royal perfumed aromatic oil according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus. A fragrant herbal saffron-colored oil of ben with cloves, lesser calamint, lavender, mahaleb cherry, mace, white rose and camphor.

Muthallathāt – medieval vapor rub according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus.

A spicy spheres rolled in crushed saffron thread and Borneo camphor. Used as cold and congestion medication.

Lakhlakhah of Yuhanna bin Masweih (Mesue) - moist compound paste to be used after bathing according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus.

Spicy soft ointment made of cloves, cinnamon, mastic resin, Indian nard and agarwood. Recommended for winter for those suffering from stomach aches or the elderly who feel cold.

Dharīrah – scented powder for winter according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus.

A powder of ground aromatics (agarwood, rose petals, cloves, nutmeg, Borneo camphor) fumigated with musk.

• Bakhūr or (būkhur) Barmakiyya from Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook. Costus, bitter orange peel, labdanum, saffron and honey. Flowery spicy incense blend.

Refreshed agarwood (al-ūd al-muttarā) according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus. Used as incense.

Chips of agarwood freshened with musk and ambergris or soaked in musky rose syrup and rolled in crushed camphor

Splenid anbar (nadd or nidd) according to Abulcasis (Al-Zahrawi) from 10th century Al-Andalus. Used as incense.

A mixture of agarwood compounded with cane sugar, musk, ambergris replacement and lily-scented ben oil.

Recipe for good fatāʾil al-nidd (slim hand-rolled cylinders of incense) from Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook

Ground splendid anbar (nidd muthallatheh), charcoal, agarwood, Indian ambergris oil, musk mallow seeds and muskrat macerate

Made into paste with musky rose water and bend oil, and rolled into cylinders.

ʿAnbarī, magnificently aromatic and aphrodisiac decorative beads from Treasure Trove of Benefits and Variety at the Table: A Fourteenth-Century Egyptian Cookbook.

A paste made of agarwood, white sandalwood, civet and musk, and fumigated with agarwood and ambergris replacement. Formed in decorative shapes in molds.

Pre-modern states of India

• The incense for scenting clothes (Brhat Samhita India, 6th century CE).

Indian bay leaf, cassia, cardamom and musk.

• The incense which calms royal tempers Kopacchada (Brhat Samhita, India, 6th century).

Guggul myrrh, sal resin, terebinth, fragrant shells, camphor and honey made by Asiatic species of bees.

• Perfumed powder for rubbing body before bath, fir for use by kings, attracts bees from 9th century India, text called ''Haramekhala'' by Mahuka. Indian nard, green cardamom, fragrant shells, cubeb pepper, camphor and musk.

Imperial China

• Incense based on analyzed contents of the spice burner #433 from Mawangdui tomb number 1 (Lady Dai).

Sweetgrass rhizome, magnolia and lesser galangal.

• Imperial Courtyard Transforming Incense, Song Dynasty. The recipe # 64 from second volume of Chen's Fragrance. White sandalwood, sweetgum, agarwood, honey, camphor and musk.

• Incense for scenting clothing, Northern China, 4th century CE. White sandalwood, sweetgum, cloves and musk.

• Incense version 2, State of Bei Wei (Northern China), 5-6th century CE. Agarwood, sweetgum, honey and musk.

Incense from Southern Liang according to Poem by Wú Jūn 吳均469-520)

Lilies, wild turmeric, sweetgum and bog orchid

He Gong's incense for perfuming clothing from ‘Emergency formulas to keep at hand’ (4th century Sima Jin, Southern China)

A paste made with agarwood, cloves, musk, sweetgum, oriental sweetgum and prepared honey. Can be formed into sticks or pellets

Fragrant sachets for clothing storage #4 from recipe by Wang Tao from "Medical Secrets of an Official" published in 752

A powder of agarwood, sweet clover, Indian nard, fruits of clove, Ngai camphor and musk, kept in a bag made of tightly woven silk

Six-fragrance incense for perfuming clothes # 3 from recipe by Wang Tao from "Medical Secrets of an Official" published in 752

Sinking agarwood, deer musk, sweetgum resin, cloves, prepared opercula (rinsed in wine, cooked in honey and roasted), resin of Liquidambar formosana. Made into pellets with prepared honey. Used to fumigate damp clothing

Fragrant tea – recipe # 24 Volume 4 from Chen Shi work on fragrances

Best quality tea (young shoots), white sandalwood, sinking grade agarwood, ambergris replacement and white cardamom (Amomum villosum) seeds, ground and made into flat cakes with Chinese licorice decoction

Incense seal of Dong Zhou duke - cheap version for communal ceremonies/public festivals – from Chen Shi Volume 2 recipe #10

Powdered Dalbergia rosewood, white sandalwood, loosestrife, Korean mint, Indian nard, sweetgrass rhizome and rhubarb. Mixed with powdered apricot kernels before burning.

Emperor Zhengde (r. 1505 to 1521) incense, Ming Dynasty, China. Recipe from volume 17 of Xiang sheng by Zhou Jiazhou

Powdered agarwood (the best one can afford), Borneo camphor, saffron, root of Dahurian angelica, deer musk replacement, ambergris replacement and rose water as needed to make a paste. Formed into small spheres for fragrant prayer beads or larger pellet to be burnt as incense.

Concubine Yang Guifei incense (Xiang sheng) – excellent relief after an intense day. Recipe from Xiang sheng by Zhou Jiazhou

This recipe is included in all books on incense starting from Song Dynasty, with only slight variance in quantity of ingredients). A very musky and spicy scent.

Joyous Plum # 2 -recipe from volume 17 of Xiang sheng by Zhou Jiazhou

Powdered white sandalwood, Indian nard, Szechuan lovage, Chinese plum (skinless black Chinese plums are cooked into a thick syrup), Borneol camphor, musk replacements, refined honey. Needs to age at least 8 months before using

Incense shaped into decorative cakes according to recipe of Zhou Jiazhou (Volume # 15)

Powdered agarwood, sandalwood, figwort, frankincense, cloves and nard made into paste with steamed pulp of Asian pear. Formed into decorative cakes and burnt as incense.

The Asian pear has first the top cut off. The seed core is removed, and the cavity is filled with agarwood and sandalwood mix. It is steamed until soft and then blended into thick pulp (syrup) used as binder.

The top part is cut off

Steaming the filled pears

Soft pears ready to be blended into pulp

Pre-modern Japan

Three recipes for kneaded incense (takimono) from Yōmei Bunko library collection, and most likely were compiled in first half of 17th century by members of the Imperial Family from the collection of incense manuals and "book of secrets"

"Celestial Being" - most likely from Heian period, based on ground agarwood, cloves, frankincense, and sandalwood. Made with prepared honey

"New Pillow" - not dated, but most likely Muromachi period, made with addition of Korean mint, cassia bark, wild turmeric and prepared honey.

"Fallen Leaves Covering the Ground" - most likely an early 17th century blend (Edo period), made with Korean mint, cassia bark, wild turmeric, lychee peels, honey and pulp from shade-dried mume (Japanese) plums.

Aged, ready to use incense pellets


"Mt. Fuji" - from collection compiled by Nakanoin Michimura from Imperial sources, late 16th century, made with agarwood, frankincense, camphor, Ligusticum chuanxiong, refined honey.

Recreation of the fragrant content of ebiko (fragrant bags # 4, #8 and # 9) from Nara period Japan (710-784 CE). The fragrant content was recreated based on available partial identification of ingredients, and contemporary recipes from China.

• Fragrant pills for perfuming the body, based on recipes from Ishinpō (醫心方) or "Formulas from the Heart of Medicine" – earliest extant Japanese medical text

• Powders for preventing bad body odors based on recipes from Ishinpō (醫心方) or "Formulas from the Heart of Medicine"

Prescription for ointment to treat sweaty armpits and soles of the feet and hands, groin, and thighs the are always sweaty and malodorous. The powder was mixed with soured rice wine before application

Powder for removal of armpit stink. This powder was kept in a small silk bag, placed under the armpit, and (worn) until odor is gone